Chiara’s family being from Veneto, here are some good adresses from locals. First of all, when you go to Venice, be fatalist : if your are not a local, prices will be higher for you (even for some italien from another city !) : it’s the way it is so just enjoy it and do not bother too much about prices.
Aperitivo, have a drink : Venezia has typical appetizers such as Spritz (Aperol, prosecco et seltz) or Bellini (invented by Cipriani at iconic Harry’s bar: prosecco and white peach juice). In Venezia we say « andare per ombre », go for shadows, meaning go for glass wines with the « cicchetti », the venitian « tapas ». You usually have drinks et the « bacari » traditional bars:
At the corner of Calle Larga Giacinto Gallina and the bridge that takes you to Campo SS Giovanni e Paolo, you will find a traditional Bacaro
Al Bottegon, Fondamenta Nani, typical wine bar
Lavena, San Marco, when you are looking at the Church it is on your left Under the portico. It is a venitian institution and they serve one of the best Spritz in town. Drink it at the counter.
Rosa Salva, delicious pastry store in Campo SS Giovanni e Paolo also has an address in Calle delle Mercerie where they serve a fantastic Bellini
Osteria Santa Marina, good fish, Campo santa Marina, close to de Campo santa Maria Formosa
Alla Madonna, calle della Madonna, San Polo 594 good seafood risotto and good fish
Ristorante Do Forni, a classic , 2 steps away fromde San Marco, calle specchieri 468
Aciugheta : very good, Campo SS Filippo e Giacomo
Met, the Metropol restaurant where you can have a gastronomic meal at reasonable price with their « piatto unico », day’s spécial,Riva degli Schiavoni 4149
Da Mario alla Fava, you can have « mezze porzioni », half portions
La zucca, specialized in very well cooked vegetables, Santa Croce 1762
Wilner, very good fish, Riva degli Schiavoni
Harry’s bar : a must, Hemingway’s bar. Try the « meringata » cake for desert
Locanda Cipriani in Torcello : charming hotel and restaurant in a pretty garden facing Torcello’s churches where Hemingway used to come (same owner as Harry’s bar)
Da Celeste in Pellestrina, traditional fish restaurant Da Romano in Burano, their speciality is the risotto di go, the little fish from the laguna
Walking around Venice: Avoid the crowd and do not flow the arrows ! Lose yourself in the little calle and sotoporteghi, you will always end up finding your way out. Our favorite « campi » (squares): Campo SS Giovanni e Paolo with its antique hospital, Campo San Giacomo dell’Orio, Campo Santa Margherita. For museums, we love the Guggenheim for the building and garden and also its fantastic futurist collection, Palazzo Ducale and Museo Correr for venitian life, Punta della Dogana more for the site than for the art pieces. You may also visit Ca’ Rezzonico, a beautiful XVIII century venitian Palace.
You must abslolutely visit the basilique of San Marco where I get the Stendhal syndrom everytime I visit it. So much beauty is overwhelming. Visit also charming Santa Maria dei Miracoli, Santa Maria Formosa, la scuola dalmata di San Giorgio e Trifone for the Carpaccio paintings, the Fondazione Querini Stampalia Carlo Scarpa’s renovation and the painting of The Presentation of Jesus to the Temple. In general, always go Inside the churches, lots of art treasures way for you. If you don’t want to spend for the super expensive gondola tour, you can still experience the gondola by crossing the Canal grande paying 50 cents of Euros. Use the vaporetti and walk.